With new dishes on the menu, it was time for a return to Sato in Bahrain, a longtime favourite of anyone who favours the clean complexity of Japanese cuisine.
Sato at The Gulf Hotel Bahrain Convention & Spa is well recognised as a reliable destination for fans of Japanese food. When I heard that Chef Kevin De Guzman was set to tantalise us with a new menu, I was delighted to visit and check it out.
Arrival at this island institution always feels like an occasion, walking the long, lantern-lit corridor towards the circular aquarium heightens the anticipation of the feast in store. Interiors are darkly intimate, without being overdone and, before long, we’re seated in the sectioned off private dining room where Chef Kevin and our server, clad in a beautifully patterned, traditional kimono, wait to greet us.
We’re here to try the new menu items but we tell Chef Kevin there’s one non-negotiable favourite – of which more later – and he’s very happy to hear we’re so attached to a dish inspired by his much-loved mentor.
First to the table is the Hamachi Crudo – thinly sliced, raw young yellowtail – accompanied by crispy green leaves and edible flowers, sitting in a pool of bright green sauce, a combination of basil, parsley and coconut cream. The flesh is buttery and soft, its delicate flavour perfectly complemented by the light sweetness of the sauce. Almost unfishy, this would be the perfect introduction for someone new to raw Japanese cuisine.
Presentation at Sato is always spot on, but the next new offering goes a step further, introducing Kamikaze Tartlets – pretty little bundles, served in a basket. The deep red beetroot tartlets are crunchy, the perfect foil to the filling of cubed salmon and lightly salty, seared salmon skin, coupled with a dusting of chilli powder, ponzu pearls to bring the umami and black tobiko for a hint of smoke and drama. The initial flavour and texture combination of the beetroot and fish are totally satisfying but it’s the delicate afterburn from the chilli that leaves a superbly flavourful lasting impression.
Next comes my favourite of the new dishes, all of them Kyoto-inspired, the Gyu Takiawase is an absolute triumph. Generous chunks of marinated beef, gamey and deeply flavourful, are tenderly pink in the middle, their silken texture barely needing a knife. They’re accompanied by dashi-infused mash sitting in a pool of gelatinous dashi sauce – the lightly fishy flavour elevating the humble mashed potatoes into something that’s anything but ordinary. On the side, a perfect wedge of purple cabbage – crispy and bright with just a hint of earthy truffle oil, a surprising combination that’s an absolute winner. And then it’s time for that perennial favourite I mentioned above. The Scallops Shogayaki – Hokkaido scallops in an incredibly aromatic and tasty ginger and soy dressing with a hefty amount of garlic to keep an already sublime dish extra interesting. Scallops are a challenge to cook, underdone and they veer towards the slimy, too long on the pan and they’re dry and rubbery. But, when perfectly executed, as in this case, they’re hard to beat. The flesh, firm and delicate, is light enough to absorb all the flavours of the dressing and each mouthful is a little bite of heaven – I’m very glad to hear they’re staying on the menu.
Before dessert, I take a short tour around the restaurant to see if anything else has changed. The sushi bar, where I take a bite of firm, pink sashimi and delight in the warmth of genuine wasabi, is still a focal point, open and bright, it offers a great opportunity to watch the chefs at work. I’m drawn by the Teppanyaki grill room where diners are enjoying meats cooked on the flat grill. Smoke rises and the scent of heat and spices fills the air. I’m seriously tempted but, with an eye to dessert, I know my tummy space is limited.
I head back to our table as our server arrives with the final new addition for our visit: Hokkaido Cheesecake. A classic baked cheesecake, it’s rich and creamy, delightfully dense, the baking process bringing the ingredients together in a velvety creamy crumble, the lightly burnt top adding texture to the richness. It’s accompanied by something I haven’t encountered before: olive oil ice cream with sea salt. I’ve seen this on other menus and always avoided it, the idea of olive oil in an ice cream just never seemed appealing. I was totally wrong. This ice cream is amazing, the high-quality olive oil giving a satisfyingly nutty, earthy flavour, perfectly offset by the hint of sea salt. Definitely very moreish and something for which I’ll be returning.
As our feast draws to a close, I reflect on the changes and the things that’ve remained the same. Sato is as welcoming as ever, the serving team is warm, professional and knowledgeable, always under the watchful eye of Chef Kevin, who’s a perfectionist with a great imagination. The new dishes will make a strong addition to an already stellar menu, and I can’t wait to go back when I have space for that amazing teppanyaki.
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