The menu at Gymkhana Doha plays with the palate. Fernanda Langhammer went along to join in the game.
Bold flavours and complex use of spices are the essence of Indian cuisine, balancing sweet, salty and sour with a spicy kick. We all know that if this kind of food doesn’t come with some heat, something must be wrong. The country’s diversity is reflected in its food, which varies from region to region. I didn’t grow up eating this type of fare, so every time I embark on an Indian culinary journey, the flavours always surprise me positively – it’s like discovering sensations and combinations that my brain can’t quite relate to – exciting.
Gymkhana at Katara Hills Doha, LXR Hotels & Resorts offers a menu that mainly highlights Northern recipes. The restaurant has an impressive vibe, with dark parquet floors and olive-green chairs with gold accents that resemble the elite clubs of India. The walls and ceiling are covered in wood panels in dark brown and green tones, creating an atmosphere of sophistication. The massive crystal chandelier hanging imposingly in the centre of the ceiling is a showstopper that steals the scene. The terrace décor is a bit different, with light tiled floors and beige furniture surrounded by greenery – perfect for the upcoming cooler months.
Our feast at Gymkhana started with some appetisers under the Nashta section of the menu. I learned that this word actually means breakfast, so I believe these small bites can also be eaten as the first meal of the day. The Kid Goat Methi Keema was a concoction of minced baby goat meat cooked with fenugreek, which was quite pronounced, creating a distinct flavour. The mix was not precisely a paste, but not as grainy as minced meat usually is; the texture was perfect for spreading on the soft pao (bread) that accompanied it. We were told to add finely chopped onions and a squeeze of lemon for the perfect bite. For my dining companion, this was her favourite dish – comforting yet tasty. For me, the Aloo Chaat was the winner. The main ingredient is potatoes, which at Gymkhana were fried in small cubes and combined with chickpeas. Served with tamarind sauce and sev (deep-fried chickpea flour that adds a crunchiness to the dishes), it was a balanced explosion of sweet, savoury, tangy and spicy flavours. This dish is all about the variety of textures, from crispy to creamy, to play with your taste buds. Seasoned with chaat masala (a spice blend with salty and sour notes), paired with earthy accents from roasted spice seeds and a touch of sweetness from chutneys and garnished with yoghurt and sev – yes, it sounds like everything is happening in this dish (and it is). Still, somehow it works beautifully, and I couldn’t stop going back to it throughout the meal.
We also tried the Patiala Fried Chicken and the Kasoori Chicken Tikka, Moong Sprouts & Kasundi Kachumber. Patiala is related to a royal style of cooking that originated in the Punjab region of North India. It’s known for its richness, robust flavours and heavy use of aromatic spices. The fried boneless chicken was marinated in tamarind sauce and coated with coriander and cumin seeds, with a touch of mint, chilli and onions. The meat was tender, with a sharp hint delicately enhanced by a touch of sweetness. Kasoori refers to kasuri methi, which are dried fenugreek leaves that provided a unique, slightly bitter, aromatic flavour to the second chicken dish. Marinated overnight, the chicken is cooked in the tandoor oven, giving the meat a firmer texture. It also had a lemony and saffron accent, and it was the spiciest dish of them all – if you like super heat, this is the pick for you.
We then moved to the mains, to my delight (I am a huge fan of curries), we had a lovely selection that included Goan Prawn Curry and Chicken Butter Masala. I have to confess that I love prawns, so this dish had my name on it. Originally from the coastal Indian state of Goa, it is vibrant, spicy and tangy, with a creamy richness from the use of fresh coconut milk. Despite its texture, it felt really light and full of flavour. The classic Chicken Butter Masala was rich, super creamy and sweet with a balanced touch of mild spices and a tang from tomatoes. It was not overwhelmingly hot and the chicken was cooked to perfection, exceptionally soft to the touch of the fork, but still firm enough. A comforting duo that we gobbled down with basmati rice and a variety of naans (plain, cheese and garlic). We also tried the Dal Lasooni, a lentil curry with an intense garlic touch, and Saag Makai, a thick gravy made with spinach and corn, which paired well with the mains.
Gymkhana offers delectable dishes, but that’s not all. The drinks are as delicious as the food. We tried the Green Park Swizzle (super refreshing with cucumber, mint and elderflower), Billiard Room Punch (made with jasmine tea, it had an intense strawberry flavour), 4th Rifles (with a prominent pineapple touch enhanced by ginger and cinnamon flavours) and last but not least, the Quinnie Sour (fresh lemon and ginger, tonic and the detail that made all the difference, curry leaves).
We ended the meal with two traditional desserts: Gulab Jamun and Falooda. As expected, the Gulab Jamun, fried dough balls, was warm, soft and spongy, soaked in a fragrant sugar syrup infused with cardamom and rose water, delicious! It was the first time I had tried Falooda and the whole concept of the dessert was a bit too wild for me. Made with sweet basil seeds, vermicelli noodles, milk and rose syrup, topped with saffron kulfi (Indian ice cream) and nuts, the mix of textures and intense flavours matches this cuisine, which is all about bold, complex flavours.
Gymkhana offers a feast for your palate and an ambience that is cosy and grand at the same time, perfect for a meal with your loved ones. I can’t wait to go back to try the many other options on the menu in the al fresco environment of the laid-back terrace.
Please call +974 4402 4444 for more information
@gymkhanadoha