The redesigned Toric collection from Parmigiani Fleurier – comprising a Chronograph Rattrapante in rose gold, and a Petite Seconde model in two variations: rose gold and platinum – is making its debut in the Middle East this month.
The new collection epitomises Parmigiani Fleurier’s philosophy of fine watchmaking – a harmonious blend of understated luxury and fine craftsmanship allied to technical sophistication and mechanical excellence.
Connoisseurs of haute horlogerie and independent watchmakers will remember the Toric as a pillar of Parmigiani’s collections for many years – distinguished by its knurled bezel and classically elegant formality.
While the new Toric maintains the signature knurled bezel, it brings a subtle modernity to the previous design. The collection encapsulates today’s evolving codes of sartorial sophistication, where timeless craftsmanship meets a liberated, effortless approach to dressing. The traditional markers of status, wealth and influence have evolved; yesterday’s formal attire has given way to more nuanced expressions of style.
In keeping with the Maison’s commitment to honouring traditional craftsmanship – protecting and reviving age-old techniques by employing them in new ways – the new Toric collection is a showcase for watchmaking and decorative craftsmanship of the highest order.
Every element embodies a concentration of know-how and added value, from grené dials to hand-guilloché decoration, the hand-skeletonisation and hand-bevelling of movement bridges, and the hand-stitching of straps using a technique drawn from Italian bespoke tailoring and Alta Moda (haute couture).
Gold at the Heart of the Toric Collection
Exceptional timepieces demand exceptional movements and Parmigiani Fleurier excels in this domain. Rarely seen in watchmaking, the Toric collection movements are crafted from 18-carat rose gold – a testament to Parmigiani Fleurier’s commitment to excellence.
While gold provides structural rigidity, its malleability presents challenges compared to the base metals – steel or brass – normally used in watchmaking. The use of gold requires exceptional understanding of its material properties and, with movements entirely developed, produced and assembled in the Maison’s own workshops, the Toric collection showcases Parmigiani’s mastery of the precious metal.
The bridges of Calibre PF361, which powers the Toric Chronograph Rattrapante, are open-worked – meticulously chiselled, shaped, and decorated to the highest standards of watchmaking tradition, with every operation carried out by hand.
The art of skeletonisation involves removing metal without compromising the functional rigidity of the components, which adds to the complexity of the craft. When performed on 18-carat rose gold, the result is both delicate and spectacular: the bridges of Calibre PF361 form a harmonious ensemble of arabesques, satin-finished and bevelled by hand to enhance their beauty.
The Toric Petite Seconde timepiece features an 18-carat rose gold movement, Calibre PF780, with two bridges designed as strongly architectural elements, integral to the watch’s overall aesthetic. Upholding Parmigiani Fleurier’s esteemed reputation for fine decoration and finishing, the bridges are adorned with the Côtes de Fleurier guilloché pattern.
To create this guillochage by hand, the 18-carat rose gold plates are carefully incised using an antique hand-operated rose lathe fitted with cams in various shapes and sizes according to the desired pattern.
Each piece requires patience, sensitivity and experience to achieve the final result: to determine the precise position and depth of each line, the human hand and eye take precedence, maintaining the same gestures as the guilloché-makers of past centuries.
This dedication to meticulously executed traditional craftsmanship stands in stark contrast to modern electronically controlled guillochage machines and ensures that each watch is a masterpiece of artisanal excellence.
Dials that Revive the Almost-Forgotten Art of Grenage
Grenage is an ancestral decorative technique developed in the 18th century and almost forgotten until revived by Michel Parmigiani.
It involves grinding a mixture of tartar cream, sea salt and silver with a glass pestle and adding demineralised water to create an easy-to-work amalgam. As silver is photosensitive, it’s essential to work in semi-darkness, not bright light.
After the amalgam is spread over the dial surface with a horn spoon, the dial is rubbed by hand, making circular movements in all directions, using special brushes and carefully judged pressure.
The stiffness of the brush influences the colour: stiff bristles create a dark, greyish colour, whereas the much finer, softer brushes used at Parmigiani Fleurier achieve a denser, whiter grain. Grené comes from grain: tiny grains accumulated next to each other.
Punto A Mano – Straps that Celebrate the Art of Italian Tailoring
The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric collection embodies a concentration of know-how and added value in every element. The strap, an often-overlooked element, is given full prominence – treated with the same reverence as the gold movements and hand-grained dials.
Crafting the Nubuck-treated alligator leather strap – a process that takes two days for each strap – mirrors the meticulous process of tailoring a bespoke suit. The material and stitching are the highlights, with each bracelet being entirely hand-crafted – requiring twenty, or so, precise manual operations to complete them and resulting in subtle, unique differences.
At the request of Parmigiani Fleurier, the hand-stitching uses the Italian tailoring technique known as punto a mano – a technique never previously executed by the strap-maker.
On the visible side, a tiny stitch (1mm) is followed by an ample space (4mm), while on the inner side, the sequence is reversed: a large stitch followed by a small space. Showcasing the dedication to artisanal excellence, hand-sewing takes about twenty minutes for each piece, contrasting sharply with the three minutes a machine would take.
Nubuck treatment gives the alligator leather a velvety effect, achieved through delicate handling and light abrasion – a form of sanding perfected by the craftsman’s experience and sensitivity – neither too much nor too little.
The new Toric collection by Parmigiani Fleurier captures the spirit of today’s sartorial ethos – a seamless fusion of refinement and versatility, reflecting the rhythm of modern life.
More than just a wristwatch and accessory, these timepieces are a statement of style that resonates with the liberated codes of contemporary luxury, where sophistication is defined by personal expression rather than rigid formality.
For more information, please visit www.parmigiani.com.