With the relaunch of La Table Krug, at The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain, Liz O’Reilly discovered a haven of understated luxury married with exquisite cuisine.
La Table Krug, of which the Bahrain version is one of only four worldwide, first launched in 2019 with just 16 seats and serving a menu paired with the inimitable, premium French bubbly brand. It later moved to The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain’s beachside setting as a bistro pop-up and this proved so popular, that it’s back in the original location, with the neighbouring La Med doing double duty as the bistro in the evenings.
I was delighted to visit on the opening night of La Table Krug, the 2024 version, to experience Chef de Cuisine Alexis Knecht’s exquisitely crafted tasting menu – which, for a venue of this quality, is surprisingly affordable offering both three- and five-course options.
The entryway, found outside of the main hotel and offering a tantalising glimpse of the gardens and pool, is flanked by a deep red carpet, giving notice of the delights within and the partnership with the historic French beverage house, whose founder, Joseph Krug, is proudly displayed in portrait form inside.
La Table offers nothing short of a multi-sensory French epicurean experience, encapsulated in a truly luxurious, classically European atmosphere. Starched white linens give an air of elegance while wood-panelled walls, marble floors and crystal chandeliers enclosed in an intimately small space, give a feeling of dining in a turn of the 20th century upper-class home. The restaurant still seats just 16 extremely lucky diners and deeply cushioned velvet chairs and sofas whisper of luxury as does the simple but chic décor, abundance of fresh flowers, heavy, golden-bronze flatware and exquisite Bernardaud Limoges porcelain tableware.
My dining companion and I were joined by the hotel’s Director of Food and Beverage William Fily, who told us of his pride at the relaunch – though La Table never really went away, it has continued to serve private parties since its launch – and his plans for further developments across the property.
First to our table came large chunks of housemade sourdough bread with cumin seeds, the warm, crunchy crust demanding our attention and the ponzu butter accompaniment rendering us all momentarily silent.
Soon we were treated to an interesting amuse bouche of green pea mousse topped with Royal Cristal Caviar. The mousse was almost impossibly creamy and light, the delicate pearls of the fish roe imparting an exciting pop of salty flavour and the whole making for a perfect mouthful with the sourdough, to which I returned several times during the evening.
Our first appetiser was the dill-cured Scottish salmon with wasabi, beetroot, coriander and sweet apple. The curing process imparted a deliciously smoky flavour while the heat of the wasabi, a perfect accompaniment, cut through the rich texture of the fish perfectly playing against the sweetness of the apple and the earthy beetroot. Truly a small serving of heaven which looked every bit as good as it tasted and provided a wonderful combination of textures and tastes.
My dining companions had foie gras from Périgord which was creamy, smooth and deeply flavoursome, served atop a brioche bun with mango, figs and poached fruits – an unusual but successful pairing.
I had shrimps in the chef ’s secret recipe garlic and lemon butter topped with tomato confit. This dish was divine, the crustaceans perfectly cooked, their flesh melting and beautifully coated in the rich buttery sauce, which was the star of the show.
Onto the mains and the seabass was a triumph, the tasty, crispy skin providing a delightful textural foil to the firm and flaky flesh. The fish was served with a flavoursome green sauce concocted from basil and bubbly, giving it a unique piquancy that demanded complete attention. Chunky leeks beneath offered an excellent contrast and a bell pepper topping added a subtle but welcome hint of sweetness.
The US Prime beef tenderloin was the pièce de résistance. Buttery smooth and deeply earthy in flavour, it hardly needed chewing and yielded to our knives with just the slightest hint of pressure. The accompanying Sichuan pepper and teriyaki sauces were tasty but, truly, unnecessary due to the quality of the meat, simply there to add a touch of drama in the pouring. And the truffle mash, so velvety and mellow. The crunchy asparagus and fruity accompaniment delightfully cut through the richness of the steak and sauce.
A palate cleanser of lemon-mint sorbet was served in dramatic fashion providing a delightful show with helium infused mint bubbles, from a newly arrived Vom machine, being skilfully sliced and floated around the room by the chef. I have to admit, this seemed a little incongruous given the elegance of the setting but it certainly added an air of levity and fun to the proceedings.
Last to arrive at the table was the dessert. Of course, we were full but you all know about the separate sweet stomach by now, and I could not leave without at least trying the decadent Valrhona chocolate lava sponge accompanied by passionfruit sorbet which actually contained roasted passionfruit seeds. As the molten interior oozed from within, suffice to say, my dessert stomach excelled itself and managed to finish the whole portion, which was a delicious indulgence and the perfect conclusion to an outstanding repast.
La Table Krug’s tasting menu is meticulously crafted, each course a showcase for the chef ’s creativity and the quality of the ingredients. From the quietly opulent surroundings to the excellence of the service and the indulgent menu, it is an exquisite taste of France right here in Bahrain.
For more information or to make a reservation, please
call +974 1758 6499.
@ltkbh